The Whole Onion Family: A Guide to Cooking with Alliums

The Whole Onion Family: A Guide to Cooking with Alliums

By Anna Nelson – I was digging through my crisper drawer last week and realized something. Almost every dinner I make starts the same way. Onion in the pan. Garlic close behind. It’s such a normal step that I stopped thinking about it years ago. But when I started paying attention to what Otterbee’s has been bringing in lately, the onion family, or alliums if you want the fancy word, is having a real moment. Onions, garlic, shallots, leeks, scallions. They all come from the same plant family, and they all do slightly different jobs in the kitchen. Once you know the differences, your cooking gets a lot more interesting.

Onions: Not All the Same Bulb

Let’s start with the basics, because even onions aren’t as simple as they look.

Storage onions are the yellow and white ones that sit in a bag on your counter for weeks without complaint. They’re sharp when raw, but they mellow out beautifully when you cook them low and slow. If you’re making a soup base, a braise, or caramelized onions for a burger, this is your onion. It’s got the sugar content to brown well and the sturdiness to hold up over a long cook time.

Sweet onions are a different animal. Think Walla Walla or Vidalia style varieties. They’ve got a higher water content and less of that sharp bite, which makes them good raw. Sliced thin on a sandwich, or tossed into a summer salad, sweet onions won’t fight the other flavors on your plate. The tradeoff is they don’t store as long, so use them up while they’re fresh.

Red onions split the difference. They’ve got some sweetness but still a bit of bite, and that purple color makes them a natural for pickling. A quick pickled red onion, just red onion, vinegar, a little sugar and salt, sitting in the fridge for thirty minutes, will change your tacos, your grain bowls, and your sandwiches for the better. I keep a jar going most weeks.

Scallions and Leeks: The Milder Cousins\

Scallions, also called green onions, are the ones you can eat top to bottom. The white base has a little onion punch, and the green tops are grassy and mild. They’re great raw, sliced thin over eggs, folded into a slaw, or scattered on top of a bowl of soup right before you eat it. They cook fast too. Toss them into a stir fry in the last minute or two so they stay bright and don’t turn limp.

Leeks look like giant scallions but they behave differently. They’re sweeter and more delicate once cooked, almost silky. The dark green tops are tough and better saved for stock, but the white and light green parts are where the good stuff is. Leeks need a real cleaning before you cook them. Slice them lengthwise, then run them under water and fan out the layers, because dirt likes to hide in there. Once clean, sauté sliced leeks in butter until soft and you’ve got the base for a potato leek soup, or a simple bed for roasted fish.

Shallots: Small but Mighty

Shallots get overlooked, which is a shame. They look like a small onion but taste closer to a cross between onion and garlic, with more finesse and less bite. They’re the backbone of a good vinaigrette. Mince one finely, whisk it into oil and vinegar, and let it sit for a few minutes before you dress your salad. That little bit of time softens the sharpness and lets the flavor spread through the whole dressing.

Shallots also shine in a pan sauce. After you sear a steak or a piece of fish, take the pan off high heat, add a minced shallot, and let it soften in the leftover fat for a minute before you deglaze with wine or stock. It’s a small move that makes a meal feel a lot more finished than it actually was to cook.

Garlic: The One Everyone Already Knows

I don’t think garlic needs an introduction, but it does deserve a little more respect than it usually gets. How you cut it changes how it tastes. A whole clove tossed into a braise stays mellow and sweet. Minced garlic thrown into hot oil at the start of a sauté gets aggressive fast, so keep an eye on it, because burnt garlic turns bitter in seconds and there’s no saving it once it happens. If you want a gentler garlic flavor, add it near the end of cooking instead of the beginning.

Roasted whole garlic is one of those things that feels fancy but takes almost no effort. Cut the top off a head, drizzle with olive oil, wrap it in foil, and roast until the cloves are soft and golden. Squeeze them out and spread on toast, stir into mashed potatoes, or mash into softened butter for garlic bread that actually tastes like something.

Depending on the season, you might also spot green garlic in your Otterbee’s order, which is garlic harvested young before the bulb fully forms. It looks like a skinny leek and tastes like garlic with the volume turned down. Slice it and sauté it the way you would scallions. It’s gentle enough to use in bigger amounts than you’d ever use with cured garlic.

Cooking with the Whole Family

Most good cooking starts with some combination of these alliums working together. A classic mirepoix leans on onion. A soffritto in Italian cooking often includes onion and garlic both. French cooking layers in shallots for their subtlety. Once you start noticing which allium shows up in which dish, you start to understand why certain meals taste the way they do.

A simple way to practice this is a weeknight pan sauce dinner. Sauté sliced onion until soft and golden, add minced garlic for the last minute so it doesn’t burn, then build your sauce or braise from there. Or go the other direction and make an allium forward side dish. Slice a few onions thin, add a couple of leeks, and roast them together with olive oil and a splash of balsamic until they’re soft and a little caramelized at the edges. Serve it next to a piece of grilled beef or fish and you’ve got a side dish that tastes like more effort than it actually took.

The alliums keep well in your kitchen too. Onions, garlic, and shallots can sit in a cool, dark, dry spot for weeks. Leeks and scallions want the fridge, wrapped loosely so they don’t dry out. Having a stock of them on hand means you’re never really starting a meal from zero. There’s always something in the bag ready to hit the pan first.

Anna Nelson is a writer and editor based in Smith River, CA. She writes about local food and seasonal shifts and is a proud OtterBee’s shopper and contributing author to the OtterBee’s Market blog.